October 2009 ·
Notebook
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Bernard Avishai is the author of The Hebrew Republic (Harcourt). He is currently working on a reassessment of Philip Roth’s Portnoy’s Complaint.
Ramallah, the hub of interlocking suburbs north of Jerusalem, is the current seat of the Palestinian Authority, or at least what’s left of it: a deceptively bustling place where just over 290,000 Palestinians live. In the early 1970s, I would come to Ramallah to service my car. Today, it is illegal for Israeli citizens to enter, though foreign leaders and NGO officials routinely drive the fifteen minutes to get there from East Jerusalem, through the gray bunkers of the Kalandia checkpoint. The secret way around the closure—pretty much an open secret for any Israeli with an American passport—is to come in through the distant Hizma crossing to the east, blending in with Jewish settlers on their way home. I’ve come this way to talk business.
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| SEE ALSO: Arab-Israeli conflict; Israel; Military occupation; Palestinian Arabs; West Bank | ||||
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